There are lots of companies selling adjustable-height desks, but they tend to cost nearly a thousand dollars, or more.
I finally found something that works and doesn't cost so much: http://heightadjustableworktable.com.
If you already have a desk, you have a desktop, and can probably reuse it, so all you need is the frame. (If you don't have a top, they sell complete desks too.)
The frame breaks down into a fairly small, dense package.
It only took about an hour to assemble (not counting idiotic rework because a certain hamfisted idiot flipped the top the wrong way the first time).
The mechanism is metal on nylon bushings, and operates smoothly.
The engineering and manufacturing are first-rate.
A very good value.
My only complaint is that the lowest height of the desk is still too high for a normal-height woman, and there's no way to shorten the legs because the mechanism is integral.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Under load, a PC fan becomes a distraction while listening to music with quiet passages, coding, etc.
So I built a couple of completely silent PCs. (The optical drive makes noise, but I only used it to load the OS.)
If you want to do the same, you'll need to follow steps similar to these:
- Get a fanless-PC chassis. These are also called "media PCs", and they're silent so they can be used in home theaters without distraction. There are several manufacturers. The best price/performance ratio seems to be Streacom. You can get them from Perfect Home Theater, and from Quiet PC. Both vendors are a pleasure to work with. The prices were better at Perfect Home Theater, but he was out of stock in silver, so I wound up getting them from Quiet PC, and then got the accessories from him. The FC8 chassis I used has the smallest footprint, but requires an external power supply. For our offices, there wasn't space on the rack for a flatter, wider chassis like the FC5, FC9, or FC10. Also, I wanted front-panel USB sockets. Be careful to get fanless, because Streacom makes other models that look like the fanless versions, but aren't. You can get them with remote controls, which is useful for media PCs, and useless for a regular PC.
- Get the necessary parts. You will need a motherboard, CPU, RAM, SSD, and, if you want an internal optical drive, the special slimline optical drives from Perfect Home Theater. I wanted a fast system, so I used an Intel DH67CF motherboard, Intel Core i7 3770S 3.1 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155 CPU, Crucial 8GB RAM, and Intel 520 180 GB SSD. Not being a gamer, the CPU's audio and video is perfectly adequate, so I didn't need any other cards. Make sure you select a motherboard that is compatible with the chassis (Streacom lists compatible boards on their site--make sure you get one with SATA 6). The CPU I used is the fastest 65W available for a motherboard compatible with the FC8.
- Get some thermal paste. Selecting a paste feels like it takes longer than building the PC (http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/geek_tested_17_thermal_pastes_face, http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62). I wound up using Prolimatech PRO-PK1-5G, which is available from Newegg. The paste makes a mess no matter how hard you try to be careful, so be sure to put down some plastic or layers of paper towels, and wear some throwaway plastic or latex gloves if you have them.
- Follow the detailed and very helpful instructions on the Perfect Home Theater site. The two most-important pieces of information are the FC8 manual, and the connection map. Make sure you connect the SSD to a SATA 6 socket.
The only tools needed are two screwdrivers (small and really small), small wire cutters (if you want to cut off the floppy power pigtail), and a small cresent wrench (if you want to tighten the power socket more than finger tight, although finger tight seems pretty tight already). Magnetic screwdrivers are very helpful
There wasn't a lot of room between the micro-PSU and the right heatpipe, so I (gently!) bent the heatpipe up a bit, and cut off the Molex socket that faces into the case (because an identical socket on the other side of the micro-PSU faces away from the heatpipe).
I also cut off (carefully!) the power pigtail for a floppy drive, to remove a bit of clutter from the interior.
There are a number of small screws--get a bowl to put them in so they don't disappear.
It took about three hours to build the first one, due to fumbling around and learning how everything connects. The second took under an hour. (Those times do not include how long it took to load and configure the software.)